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Coffee Review

Panama Feryen Geisha Natural No.2

Jasmine, Bergamot, Orange, Strawberry, Apricot, Green grape
88.0
Dashboard mockup

Genesis

  • Country: Panama
  • Region: Boquete, Alto Quiel
  • Farm: Feryen
  • Variety: Geisha
  • Altitude: 1,600 masl (5,250 ft) ~ 1,800 masl (5,900 ft)
  • Process: Natural
  • Crop Year: 2024
  • Exporter: MI Coffee
  • Exporter’s supplied notes: Floral, raspberry, grape, chocolate, juicy
  • Green bean price: $66.50 per kg (retail)

Sensory Score & Experience

  • Aroma: Floral, Strawberry, Stonefruit, Yogurt
  • Flavor: Jasmine, Bergamot, Orange, Strawberry, Apricot, Green grape, Herb, Yogurt, Syrupy, Rosé wine

Roast profile

  • Roasting Machine: Easyster 4
  • Batch Size: 1,002 g (2.21 lbs)
  • Output Weight: 878 g (1.94 lbs)
  • Weight Loss Rate: 12.4%
Roasting Profile - Panama Feryen Geisha Natural No.2

The roast was designed considering three key factors: the origin (Central America - Panama), the natural processing method, and a medium-light target drop temperature. The gas pressure was set at a medium value to accommodate the delicate nature of Panamanian Geisha.

In recent years (starting in 2023), Panama’s natural processing methods have become more refined, with a focus on maintaining the coffee’s inherent flavors. This approach aims to preserve the delicate, floral, and subtle fruit notes associated with Panamanian Geishas, rather than emphasizing heavy fermentation flavors like berries, tropical fruits, and cacao, which can mask the variety’s unique characteristics.

This particular batch of Feryen Geisha is a prime example of this approach. The cup revealed delicate jasmine, bergamot, and orange notes reminiscent of a washed coffee, with a gradual emergence of strawberry, peach, and yogurt flavors. One noteworthy aspect of these refined natural Geishas is that the cup quality tends to improve over time during cupping, revealing a cleaner and more complex profile after about 20 minutes, akin to a “rosé wine” experience.

In terms of the roast profile, there were some areas for improvement. The first crack occurred at a slightly lower temperature than anticipated, which shortened the roast time and led to a slower development phase. This could potentially introduce baked notes and dampen the intensity of the coffee’s character.

For future batches, I plan to lower the charge temperature by approximately 20°C (36°F) to slow down the early phase of the roast, while slightly increasing the gas pressure by 1 mmAq. Additionally, I will lower the drop temperature by 1-2°C (1.8-3.6°F) to refine the roast and prevent any potential baked flavors.

This new approach should better match the reference profile for Panamanian Geishas, which tend to crack at lower temperatures compared to other naturals, thus requiring more careful management during the roasting process.

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